That’s a question that thousands of homeowners ask each year. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates that as many as 69 million gallons of paint are left over annually in the United States.
Here are some ideas when pondering what to do with those last few cans.
First, consider donating the paint for reuse. Some organizations will accept paint that’s in good condition (defined as uncontaminated paint still with a smooth consistency). The paint must be donated in a labeled container. You can check for donation options locally by clicking on “Paint donation” at www.earth911.org.
Recycle it. Water-based, or latex, paint can be recycled into new paint or used to create other products. Again, check www.earth911.org for recycling options.
Each municipality has different requirements, depending on whether the paint is oil- or water-based.
According to the website govlink.org, latex paint (water-based) can be included in curbside trash. Their suggestions include solidifying paint by:
Mixing in absorbent material such as cat litter, sawdust or shredded newspaper into paint and allow mixture to dry thoroughly or Let the paint dry out by removing the lid and setting the paint can in a well-ventilated area or Pour thin layers into a disposable pie plate or cardboard box lined with plastic and allow the paint to dray one layer at a time.
Once your paint is dry, you can leave the lid off the can and place the cans in your your regular trash. And remember, recycle any cans made of steel.
Oil-based paint, lead paint and paint thinner contain flammable and toxic solvents. For information about disposal of these products, call Earth911 for more information at 800-253-2687. Keep in mind that each municipality has different requirements.
Many times during a home inspection we always find a condensate pump not working or improperly discharged. In this case the home owner had a humdifier draining in to a 1gal container that has to be drained manually and the condensate pump is 20 feet away from the furnace. The condensate line from the a/c coil is completely level, has no ptrap installed. Also the condensate pump dishcarges into the sewer via the laundry room stand pipe. The problem with the condensate pump being so far away is drainage. the line can and will back up to the condensate pan at the heater and when it over flows it will cause damage to the electrical parts and also cause rust on the heat exchanger which you will not be able to see. Then what happens when you turn on the furnace in the winter time the heat exchanger heats up and could cause a crack which would allow carbon monoxide to enter the home. In addition the humidifier should be properly drained as well I would not recommend draining into a buck for several reasons, But the main reason being that it could overflow and cause water damage and mold. The condensate pump has several holes in it to allow for additional units to be installed. This type of configuration seen on the video could cost and or cause several thousands of dollars worth of damages.
If you don’t keep your gutters free from leaves and debris then they get clogged up and water overflows the gutter and starts rotting out the wood on your fascia and sofit boards. Keeping your gutters clean is a very important home maintenance issue and you should check the condition of your gutters at least twice a year. Also check the fastners that connect the gutter to the fascia board if they are loose or damaged then replace them. If your not sure what to use then most home centers can help you choose which are approved and will work well with your gutters. In this case they used 1″ wood screws for drywall. Not only is this an unapproved method of installation but it caused the gutter to fall apart.
When you don’t keep your gutters clean and check the fastners here’s what happens!
During the home inspection I found that the Unit for the Heat and A/C was under sized. For the equipment to work as intended it has to be sized accordingly. The rule of thumb for equipment is 600cfm per ton on A/C only. If it is a heat pump or straight electric air handler as you will see in this video then you have to size it for the heating load not the cooling. Simply put it requires far many more BTU’s for heating then cooling. Mechanical equipment can be very tricky when it comes to design, performace and safety. This is always an area were I spend alot of my time when I am inspecting. If you are unsure of your mechanical equipment or need to have it replaced my best advice is when you hire that HVAC contractor don’t be afraid to ask questions most companies have very good and qualified sales people that can walk you thru the process. I am also available to help answer any questions.
Often times during a home inspection we will find minor leaks under the sinks, water heater and supply pipe. What I found on this home inspection was that the upstairs tub was leaking down into the laundry room. The home owner tried to make the repair not only to the drain pipe but also to the ceiling as you”ll see in this video.
Your home consists of two primary systems that work together to provide comfort and shelter. Your home’s heating and cooling system maintains comfortable indoor temperatures. Your home’s envelope helps hold in comfortable indoor temperatures and provides shelter from exterior elements. The home envelope is the combination of materials that surround the interior space you live in including walls, floors, ceiling, roof, windows, and doors. The quality and integrity of your home’s envelope greatly affects the comfort and cost to operate your home.
How can improving my home’s envelope save money and energy?
The average family spends $1,900 a year on energy bills, nearly half of which goes to heating and cooling. These costs can be reduced by up to 20% by combining the right amount and type of insulation, using effective air sealing techniques, and installing windows that are appropriate for your climate.
What are the benefits of an energy efficient envelope?
Reduced drafts and even room temperatures (no cold or hot rooms).
Reduced noise transmission into your home.
Savings on heating and cooling bills.
Moisture control in your home leading to longer life of your home’s building materials and reduced incidence of mold and mildew.
Why is insulation important?
The proper type and level of insulation for your home provides a continuous thermal barrier minimizing heat flow through the walls, ceiling, and floor. The result is a more comfortable home and reduced heating and cooling costs. Installing insulation properly is as important as the type and level of insulation because gaps, voids, compressions, and moisture reduce the effectiveness of insulation and allow unconditioned air to enter your home.
What are air and vapor barriers?
Air barriers are any material used to prevent the movement of air through walls, ceilings, and floors. Vapor barriers keep moisture, which is often contained in air, from passing through and condensing in walls, floors, and ceilings. Air and vapor barriers must be installed in a manner appropriate to your climate region to work correctly. This is always toward the warmer side of the wall or ceiling. Remember: Check your local code to see what is appropriate for your climate region.
Why is air sealing important?
Ceiling, wall, and floor systems with insulation generally provide barriers to outside air coming into the home. However, small gaps, cracks, and spaces that are not closed around penetrations will allow uncontrolled outside air from entering temperature-controlled spaces. You will feel air infiltration from larger gaps as drafts that make a room uncomfortable. To detect smaller cracks that affect the energy efficiency of your home, you may need to hire a professional contractor who uses a blower door and other tools to determine the location of air leakage. Remember: It is always a good idea to check your hot water heater, furnace, gas stove and other combustion appliances as well as your carbon monoxide detectors to make sure they are in working order.
What should I know about ventilation?
Although air sealing is intended to prevent outside air from leaking into your house, a certain amount of controlled fresh air is important to keep the indoor air quality healthy. Proper ventilation provides fresh air and removes stuffy indoor air and excess moisture. Once your home is properly air sealed you should make sure that adequate ventilation is provided. To do this, you may need to hire a professional to conduct a blower door test. Ventilation to remove excess moisture and pollutants can be as simple as exhaust fans in the kitchen and bathrooms. More complex systems can cover the entire house and may include heat recovery, moisture control, and air filtering. Remember: Everyday activities such as cooking and bathing create moisture that needs to be expelled from the house to avoid mold and mildew. This will also help to keep the insulation dry so that it provides an effective thermal barrier from outside conditions.
Should I install the insulation myself or hire a contractor?
There are air sealing and insulation activities you can do yourself. A careful homeowner can often insulate attic floors, basements, new or open walls, and crawl space walls. Blown-in and sprayed-in insulation as well as adding insulation to a mobile home are best left to the professional installer. It’s important to remember, however, that insulation needs proper air-sealing to work well. And without the necessary training and equipment, you won’t know what your air-leakage is, nor if you have combustion safety problems. If you do choose to tackle this effort yourself, the Energy Star Home Sealing Guide offers specific recommendations on ways you can tighten your home envelope. You can learn more on the Energy Star Web site.
Why should I hire a professional?
Energy consultants use tools such as blower-doors to diagnose your house and develop a plan for the most cost-effective measures to take in your particular situation.
What should I know if I’m going to hire a contractor? Shop around and get several written bids for the same work (same R-value), and remember that good quality is as important as low cost. Get a receipt. The contractor is required by the Federal Trade Commission to provide you with a signed receipt that shows the R-value. Consider having the installation checked by a third-party, energy consultant or home inspector to make sure it has been installed correctly.
Water heating is the third largest energy expense in your home. There are four ways to cut your water heating bills: use less hot water, turn down the thermostat on your water heater, insulate your water heater, and buy a new, more efficient water heater. Conserve Water
A family of four, each showering for 5 minutes a day, uses 700 gallons of water a week. This is enough for a 3-year supply of drinking water for one person. You can cut that amount in half simply by using low-flow non-aerating showerheads and faucets. Lower Your Water Heater Thermostat Although some manufacturers set water heaters at 140°F, 120°F is satisfactory for most household needs. If your dishwasher does not have a booster heater, lowering the water-heating temperature is not recommended. Also, many dishwasher detergents are formulated to clean effectively at 140°F and may not perform adequately at lower temperatures. When you plan to be away from home for an extended period of time (at least 3 days), turning the water heater thermostat down to the lowest setting can help you save money. Install a Timer
Another possibility for electric water heaters is installing a timer that can automatically turn the heater off at night and on in the morning. At a $30 selling price and a do-it-yourself installation, a simple timer may pay for itself in energy saved in about 1 year. Insulate Hot-Water Pipes and the Storage Tank When you turn on a hot-water faucet during cold weather, it may take several seconds for the water to become hot. This happens because the water travels through pipes from the water heater to the faucet, and some of the pipes may pass through unheated sections of the house, such as the basement. As a result, the hot water loses some of its heat to the surrounding space.
This heat loss can be reduced by insulating hot water –especially in unheated areas. Eventually the water will cool, but it will remain warmer much longer inside insulated pipes. Easy-to-install, pre-cut blankets (or jackets) for electric water heaters are widely available and range in cost from $10 to $20. Installation is more difficult on gas- and oil-fired heaters. Ask your local furnace installer for instructions. Use Off-Peak Power to Heat Water
Most consumers use more hot water in the evenings and mornings than at other times of the day. For those who have an electric water heater, this usage contributes to the electric utility company’s “peak load,” or the largest amount of power demand that they have to meet on a daily basis. Some utilities charge lower rates at “off-peak” times and higher rates at “on-peak” times. Evaluate A New Water Heater
If your water heater is at least 7 years old, you should carefully evaluate your water-heating needs and investigate the types of heaters that could replace your current one. Most new water heater models have factory-installed traps. Some are well insulated and do not need blankets.
If you heat with electricity and you have an unshaded, south-facing location (such as a roof) on your property, consider a solar water heater. When shopping for a solar water heater, watch for systems certified by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation (SRCC) or the Florida Solar Energy Center (FSEC).
Source: U.S. Dept. of Energy
If the flashing and mastic around the chimney are loose,damaged or missing then water is coming into your attic every time it rains. Every few years the chimney should be evaulated for any issues.
Many times we’ll see where the homeowner has tried to repair the chimney but often times This type of repair won’t work for long so it’s better to just go ahead and have the repairs done by a professional roofing contractor!
As part of your annual home maintenance check you should evaluate the main electrical power meter Over head Line and be sure that it’s securely connected to the exterior wall and Inspect the outer insulating jacket. Dozens of times a year our inspectors will discover a ‘dangling’ power meter and damaged insulation like the one in this video. If any of these items are found to be in need of attention then you should contact a licensed contractor and have those items repaired.
At Quality Home Inspections we understand that many times the inspection process is time sensitive and essential for an expedient closing. That is why we have prepared this pre-inspection checklist so that we can do our job efficiently.
First, we would like to answer some of the commonly asked questions about our service:
What is a home inspection?
We are a real estate support service that evaluates the overall structural, mechanical and electrical condition of the home. We examine nearly all-visible construction components and evaluate whether these items are still serviceable. We make notations of items that may need attention to help preserve their long-term integrity. We also give our client helpful advice on general home maintenance.
Is this a building code compliance inspection?
No. Many homes were built before building codes were ever established. When building codes were established, many counties adopted (or enforced) their own version of these building codes. It would be impossible to verify the governing code for every time period in every county and make a compliance type inspection.
We inspect residential resells for function and safety. In other words do the systems and components of the house function properly and are there safety hazards present.
Home sellers, please do the following:
Confirm that all utilities are on and pilot flames are ignited.
Please provide keys for all doors & gates.
Please make sure that all domestic animals are secured.
Change or clean dirty A/C filters. Clean range exhaust filter if there is a greasy build up. (fire hazard)
Check batteries in smoke detector.
Free windows that have been painted shut.
Replace torn weather stripping around exterior doors.
Replace any missing switch or receptacle covers.
Clean gutters and down spouts.
Trim back any tree limbs that may be touching the roof of the house.
Keep foundation vents open. (except in frigid weather)
Have your HVAC system serviced if it has been over a year since the last service.
Call Quality Home Inspections (302-893-1364) if you have any questions about how to prepare your house for an inspection.